2019: Japan: Nagano: Kiso Valley

Kiso Valley is located in Nagano Prefecture.  It is an option route between Tokyo and Kyoto known as Nakasendo ("path through the mountains").  I wanted to see this path to experience how it was hard for the old people and Himura then. 

From Nakatsugawa Station, you can take a bus to the Magome Town.  Click here to see the bus schedule.  (Tip: If it's your first time travelling in the province, try to follow the crowd.  Meaning no need to be the first one on the queue, just watch what they are doing.)  Ensure to take a bus ticket from the rear door.

In around 45 minutes (570 yen, 2019), you'll be circling in mountains and valleys, seeing the fields and nature. 

Once you get-off the bus, walk back a little and enjoy the souvenir shop.   (Remember: We are doing this on a one-way path, you'll never back on this place later the day so enjoy what you are seeing.)  It's still too early to have snacks, so what I did is just to buy postcards that I'll send along the way. 

To avoid the crowd, ensure that you start your day early.  I assure you that you'll have a lot time enjoying the view and you can make a lot of selfies.

As for the weather, it is normal to have rain during autumn.  So gear-up as well, wear something that can last for a lot of walking on the trail.

Was able to catch this purple flower, perfectly beautiful, even when drenched on last night's pouring rain.

After a long walk, and it's not yet even half-way my journey, shops are getting open and I stopped this store for some steamed buns.  

There are plenty to choose from like filling with green pickles, eggplant, vegetables, bean jam and meat.  I choose to have walnut, paid for it and I sat near the store.  I was not expecting much, but the auntie's gesture to even give me hot tea (served for free) to go with my snack is just so touching (or it must be the weather that made me emotional, huh!).

(While writing this entry, I then remember that I receive the same good gesture from one of the locals when I was traveling in Obara, Toyota, Aichi back in 2015).

Fill-up your tummy with unlimited snacks they can offer.

And checkout the other souvenir shops as well.

Don't miss the fun of playing around your curious mind.  Do you wonder what the jars are for?  See these little things swimming around the cold weather.

As you go higher on the trail, don't miss to watch the sea of clouds.

This notice board, ends our Magome-juku experience.

I have crossed the street, and it's time to start the 7.7 km trail going to Tsumago-juku.

I was wondering what do these dried fruits, do from their windows, so I learned that dried persimmons hang as decorations as a sign of autumn season.

Before you go into the woods, there is an overlooking deck on where you can see some of the winding roads in the mountains. 

Now, compose your brave heart while walking into the forest.

Prepare to cross express highways in between forest trails.

Just in a short distant, you'll experience a mix of fall (with leaf-less trees, some still with autumn colors) and spring (blooming flowers).

Along the way, you'll get to cross short wooden bridges, walk on the highway-sides and nearby local houses or residential areas.

I really like their mail boxes, even if its antique or not.

If you don't like to eat in the woods, drop-by this small shop (Cafe of MountainPass 峠の茶屋) selling go-hei mochi, its a coarse sticky rice ball with chestnuts, sesame, peanuts and sake sauce.

Then, continue walking into the woods.

Since I'm going solo, I always ensure to walk fast when encountering these areas.  Do not panic, enjoy the view.  Although, I'm not sure as to when will the wild boar be out in the morning, just to be careful.

While preparing for the walk, there are sites suggesting that it is better to have the route from Magome to Tsumago as it will go downhill.  Compared on vise versa direction, in my experience I only meet a couple coming from the other side.

This is just a scene. Don't worry, I did not cross this trunk-bridge.

Some of the signs where too old, they did not remove it.  But of course they have added newer ones for readability. 

Always watch out for the vehicles, though I have not seen one.

Don't miss to see some of the  rock balancing art done by other travelers.

Always be careful in passing by the mountain side.

Appreciate the tall trees, there are not much when you come back to your city.

Viewing Tsumago-juku from the upper areas of the trail.

With broken hearts, it's saddening to see cut down trees which struggled to grow for years.

Getting  much nearer to the post town of Tsumago.

Thankfully, got to experience again the flaming colors of maple leaves.

In Tsumago-juku, I wanted to go to this Good Days Coffee & Bar, because I want to try red eye (beer cocktail featuring two parts beer, one part tomato juice, and a fresh squeeze of lemon).  Hmm, it tasted like I was drinking our tomato catsup.

What I want about the place is the souvenir area, they have tote and stamps.
@gdc_bar_a_fujihara

I was not able to try this one, perhaps, I'm just too tired or already full of the tomatoes I drank.

This water wheel still spinning which is preserved from the past.

The way heading back to the bus station.

Waiting for the almost last bus trip back to the train station.

After this experience, I still can't figure which is the best approach on visiting the place.  Where do you want to focus? 

• If on the 7 km stretch of Nakasendo trail, then ensure to pack light for that day. 
• If on the town experience, better to focus on one town a day.  I did not give justice on Tsumago-juku, because I only have a few hours left to call it a day. Or else, I'll be stuck without my accommodation. 
• If you want to forward your luggage on the next town, they also have that service.  Although, I did not opt for it because I'm carrying a laptop.
• If you want to try an onsen, it might a bit expensive.  But I was not able to see an open-private one located in Kiso Valley during my research.  Thus, I'll be getting that experience in Hakone instead. 

Summary: Nagano, Hakone to Tokyo: 8 days Itinerary and Expenses

Day	Places to See	Food and Restaurants	Accommodation / Other Options
1	Magome Town Tsumago Town		Plaza Hotel Sakae Nakatsugawa
2	(On Train)	Kinosuke	Posada Suimei
3	Hakone Yuryo Onsen Hakone National Park Lake Ashi Ancient Cedar Avenue Hakone Shrine Jinjya Heiwa-no-Torii	Hotoriya Bakery & Table	First Cabin Tsukiji Narukawa Museum of Art Salon de the Rosage
4	Mizunuma Kusaki Ashikaga Harajuku	Soup Stock	Find a tour from Klook or other day tours
5	Rikuen Garden Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse Yokohama Depot	Tayori Onibus Coffee
6	Toyo Bunko Museum Shibuya Crossing Hachiko Memorial Statue	Starbucks Reserve Roastery Aoyama Flower Market Tea House
7	Showa Memorial Park Uniqlo Flagship Store Don Quijote	Soup Stock Kagurazaka Saryo